How To Grow Chrysanthemums
Congratulations! You have either just purchased some chrysanthemum plants or are perhaps keen to know a little more about the species in general, how they grow and how they can fit into your gardening plans.
Firstly and most important; they are easy to grow, the fact that they can often be found in overgrown and neglected gardens is proof of their toughness.
They, like all plants grow best under good conditions but they are not particularly fussy and will flower quite happily with very little attention.
They come in a wide range of colours, apart from blue every other colour is represented, they have an incredible range of height and flower forms .from comparative dwarf varieties ideal for a patio tub or container right up to majestic specimens that will fit in well at the back of the border. Flower form is in itself a treat with singles semi and double flowers, anemone centres and daisy like doubles.
The chrysanthemum is unsurpassed by even the rose in its flowering period with early dwarf border varieties flowering from as early as July right through to as late as December in a mild area.
The notable increase in the ‘grow your own’ in particular reference to fruit and vegetables has spread to flowers with keen gardeners looking for an easy cut flower , the chrysanthemum really fits the bill.
Versatile, easy to grow, long lasting and colourful –our parents and grandparents knew a good plant when they saw one!
On Receipt
Carefully unpack your plants as soon as you receive them, retaining the cultural notes and any packaging in case of a query. Our special plant packaging will have protected your plants whilst they are in transit.
If the plants appear dry moisten the roots lightly but do not allow them to stand in water.
Chrysanthemums are quite hardy plants and early/mid season blooms and sprays can in a ‘normal’ season be planted directly outdoors into their flowering position.
We deliver plants to all parts of the country and local climatic conditions can vary and could influence when you can plant in your locality. We normally start to despatch when weather conditions are suitable for planting directly outside into the border. Potting the plants and growing in a sheltered spot outdoors or in a cold greenhouse or conservatory is advisable if weather or soil conditions are unsuitable.
Potting On
Always use good quality compost, potting into a 9cm (3.5”) pot. Place a little compost loosely in the base of the pot stand the plant upright in the centre of the pot adding compost over the roots until the pot is full, avoid over firming the compost using just enough pressure to ensure the plant remains upright, a good tap of the pot on the bench and a thorough watering will leave the compost ½ “below the rim of the pot.
After potting place in a sheltered spot outdoors or in a cold greenhouse or frame.
New growth will start quite soon, try to keep the soil evenly moist but not over wet, a plant grown cool and slightly dry will be sturdy and produce a good root system.
Growing on and Planting
Planting can take place as soon as weather and soil conditions permit, the border soil should be well cultivated, the addition of compost well rotted manure or peat will do much to ensure the plant makes a good start and a healthy root system. A good general fertiliser such as growmore applied at the manufacturers recommended rate is advisable.
Plants can be either planted in a border singly or in groups or in rows for ease of cultivation. Planting distances will vary with variety but as a rule of thumb 15” between plants and 15” between rows will be sufficient.
Before planting insert a cane approx.4’ long into the soil about 9”deep, plant with a trowel into a hole at the base of the cane large enough to accommodate the root ball, firmly gently and if dry water in well.
After Care
For the best results the plants need stopping once they have made some new growth and are approx 9” tall, stopping consist of removing the tip of the growing plant (approximately ¾”)
During the growing season keep weeds under control by hoeing , chrysanthemum can be shallow rooting so ensure cultivations are minimal and on the soil surface. Water well in dry weather and as the plants grow in and develop tie them to the cane for support.
Both early flowering spray and bloom chrysanthemum will require ‘stopping’ this operation encourages the plant to produce a number of side shoots all of which will either have a bloom or spray of flowers. It is a simple job to gently remove the top 3/4 ” of the plant by gentle bending the shoot between the fingers and thumb, with a little care you will find that the top will simply snap away. Do not worry if you take a larger portion of stem, chrysanthemums are hardy plants and will produce new side shoots lower down the stem.
Spray Chrysanthemums as they come into flower will produce a central bud with many side buds, these can all be left to produce flowers, however the removal of the centre bud in the cluster of small flowers will produce a more balanced spray.
Bloom Chrysanthemums require the main bud to be left and the side buds to be carefully removed when they are large enough to handle, again a simple task removing the shoot from the leaf axil by gentle snapping away the shoot between the thumb and finger.
The varieties that we supply are generally quite weather proof and will flower very well outdoors outside without protection until the onset of the first autumn frosts; even then it is quite possible to be cutting sprays and blooms well into the end of October in an average season.
Producing a number of multiflowered stems these are the backbone of many a bouquet. Sprays are easy to grow and bring colour to the late summer garden. Try single flowering kinds like Pink Enbee Wedding or doubles such as Red Wendy.
The large solitary blooms at the tip of each stem are keenly sought after by florists. The need to disbud demands more care but the effort is well worthwhile and superb specimens can be cultivated from old favourites such as Creamist and Pink Allouise.
